“We’ve put the ‘stick’ back into lipstick“
So says Anne Carullo, Estee Lauder’s Senior Vice President of Global Product Development about Lauder’s fabulous new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick – my “hot handbag favourite” that has the power of a lip crayon – i.e. long-lasting and richly pigmented - but the tenderness of a creamy lipstick.
Housed in the first new lipstick case by Lauder in 22 years, it was the brilliant Jane Lauder (who is key behind the revival of much in Estee Lauder these days) who insisted that the classic ridged gold packaging had to go. ”When you think about cosmetics, the icon of beauty is the lipstick,” says Anne. “It’s all due to the emotional component: you always have an early memory of lipstick whether it’s of your aunt, your mother… for me it was a wedding photo of my mother’s reflection in which she was doing her lipstick in a mirror.”
“Lipsticks are very complicated,” says Anne, “and not as easy as people might think to create. We did a blindfolded ‘sensorial’ – to find out what women around the world really think about lipstick. From Paris to Italy, Spain, Korea, Japan, China, we took many existing formulations, and it was interesting to see how even huge best-sellers with iconic intials embossed in the product were found to be drying and not that nice once no name was revealed. It highlighted what branding really can do to hype the quality of a product. We found what we know intuitively about what women want from their lipstick They want it to last, to feel good on their lips and they want a nice lustre. Not a big surprise – you might say, but the ones selling millions weren’t any of these things…”
Lipstick is an emotional thing – it matters! Only look at how vital lipstick becomes to any woman undergoing surgery or chemotherapy, or anything that affects their self-esteem and mindful wellbeing. It matters to our inner psyche to feel prettier – and lipstick is the fastest way (well mascara too – but another day). ”Lipstick is a ritual,” says Anne. “It dates back to the Egyptian times when women tattooed their lips to attract men in certain tribes by staining their lips with blackberry juice, to be more attractive and sensual.
“a mouth that is billowing and full figured is more attractive than a mouth that is not.” (Survival of the Prettiest by Nancy Etcoff www.amazon.co.uk)
Lipstick is designed to do something that goes beyond fashion: it finishes the way you look. ”It’s more emotive than we give it credit,” says Anne. “The concept of creating a lipstick that has a sensual, seductive component was how we started developing Pure Color Envy, and designed it from the idea of sculpting, so we are able to chisel, sculpt and curve the lips as we apply, so they can look more full and voluptuous.” The way to do that was by formula development: most lipsticks today are wax-free and gel-based. “The implication is that the lipstick is going to be softer and creamier, which if it is they then tend to break and crumble on impact; and while the creamier is great, these lipsticks then don’t wear well. You can’t have everything! And then one of our brilliant chemists said ‘why don’t we ‘fuse’ some of our modern day technologies in pigments and coatings with old school wax development. (Lipsticks of the past were hard and matte but the structure was like a brick house) So we want a lipstick, like a crayon, that strong so I can draw with it – and hence we put the stick back in lipstick“.
And so then Anne & I proceeded to draw lips all over our arms in pinks and reds and oranges – and I walked away wearing a Pure Color Envy lip – even in a neutral shade – that just wears how you want a lipstick to wear – comfortably & immaculately – for hours on end!
AND IN TERMS OF COLOURS? “There’s no shine! Shine is an illusion: you don’t usually get colour & staying power with shine. We took the colour pigment (usually round to give full colour effect) and we cut it so that when the light hits it, much like a diamond, it reflects shiny as an illusion but it really isn’t.”
YET IT’S NOT DRYING? “Taking from our skincare expertise, we took hyaluronic acid (the skin’s natural moisture molecule) and encapsulated it to keep it feeling soft all day long, every time the another molecule breaks on your lips – all day long and as often as you apply.
So – they don’t transfer, the colour stays solid and stays put so you get the wear you want, in the texture you want, in vibrant colours thanks to new synthetic waxes that replicate traditional waxes that were yellow.
SUPER HOT VALENTINE TIP!!
Try THIS! Anne Carullo, had me in hysterics as we practised!
“Put on a beautiful shade of red lipstick, and when you’re sitting across the bar and glance at someone you find attractive, you should whisper to yourself the word ‘vacuum cleaner’. The way it makes your lips look is so seductive!” but it has to be red, obviously. Make mine Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Envious www.esteelauder.co.uk
TOP TIP I love neutral lipsticks, but Anne recommends “these may make the bottom of your face look like its erased, which is fine if that’s the look you’re after – and as long as you work up your eyes to suit.” Check out my nude favourite Intense Nude
“Lip colour is the one transformative thing you can do for yourself that’s not going to make or break anything, coz you can just wipe it off, right? It’s different from eye make-up. I do think that it needs to change as we get older, many of us stay with the things we did 10 years sgo but lipstick is easy. It’s just something to play with and have fun.” And if it’s not right wipe – or kiss it off!