December Party Make-up: Photography by Iain Philpott, Styling Jo GB,
The real secret to a modern yet elegantly cool make-up is to look as if you haven’t had to try hard. Here’s the only make-up you need to make looking hot… very cool.
‘Tis the season to ‘get gorgeous’, but while you may be going out to party, you really don’t want (or need) to look as if you’ve tried ‘too hard’!
“We have this awful habit of ‘dressing up’” says Caroline Barnes, international make-up artist for Max Factor. “I’m talking ‘big hair, big make-up’…Oh what a mess! Now is the time to simplify” she says. “Less, really is more, especially if you go more sparkly in your clothes.” The trick? “Ascertain your look and stick to it!”
THE WAY TO WEAR IT…
“Too much detail loses the beauty,” says Terry Barber, MAC’s Director of Make-up Artistry. “If you’re doing one specific feature with your make-up, lose the rest. Play up your best asset and work with it to make it MORE, and the rest, LESS. If you cover all aspects of your face with make-up you’re instantly gonna look dated.”
Keeping it modern and looking stunning, means knowing when to stop.
THE NEW METALLIC EYE… Do a fingerprint of a pale, shimmery, superfine metallic shimmer just across the centre of eyelid. It’s the party equivalent to your everyday taupe nude shadow. “These work best on slightly dewy, damp moist skin as it gives it something more to cling to,” says Terry. For superfine shimmer powders, try Clarins Ombre Minerale Mineral Eyeshadow Smoothing & Long-Lasting in 01 White Sparkle; Clinique All About Shadow Quad in Smoke and Mirrors; MAC Pressed Pigment in Flicker; Bobbi Brown Sparkle Eye Shadow in Pebble.
JUST DO IT Apply an eye primer or concealer over your eyelids first, such as Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Base, or a nude eye colour such as MAC Paint Pot in Bare Study, then press a shimmer powder onto your skin along the lash line to create this beautifully delicate sheer eye that flatters. Use a brush to avoid glittery fingers that will go elsewhere and keep shimmer away from the outer corners as you won’t want to highlight any creases.
MATCH IT WITH luscious lashes only, using MAC In EXtreme Dimension 3D Black Lash, £00. “Avoid eyeliner as it makes it too dramatic a look,” says Terry. “Simplicity is more of a statement.” Work mascara right into the roots for thicker fatter, more dense looking lashes, using the tip of the wand rather than the brush.
TRY THIS TIP: Remove powder shimmer if it drops or spills with a fresh piece of cello-tape. Magic!
DON’T MISS…. Any pale shadow on the eyelids, especially shimmer, will leave tiny particles that cling to your lashes (which lightens all that definition you’ve just bothered to apply) so after coating you lashes with mascara, take a bit of black liner on the end of a brush (square-tipped is best) and paint out the roots of your lashes to ensure that they look as dark as possible from root to tip, as the darker they are at the roots, the thicker, longer and more defined they’ll look. Use Clinique Brush-On Cream Liner
THE PARTY LINE Using an eyeliner pen (Kanebo Sensai Eyeliner is one of my favourites), start drawing a fine line right above the centre of the eye, above the iris, and draw a flick that widens as you reach the outer corner. The shape that flatters totally depends on your eye shape, but I find the most flattering line – rather than going right out into the eye creases at the outer corners, I stop short above my outer lashes and flick upwards here. That way, when you look straight ahead in the mirror it looks like it’s your lashes not liner, and is more uplifting to the eyes too.
ALL SMOKE, PLENTY OF FIRE! If you suit a strong defined smoky eye best, keep your lips nude to avoid conflicting features. This will enhance your eyes all the more too. Simply wrap the colour around the eye contour by drawing around the eye contour with a powder or eye crayon, then take a cotton bud or short brush and blend it in so that it’s part of your skin, lightly shaping and defining the eye. Try Max Factor Wild Shadow Pencil in Caramel Rage or Kiko Smoky Look Eyeshadow in Ombretto 05.
“Stop with the highlighted brow – that is so out and will instantly date you.” Dina Catchpole, make-up artist
“OOH THAT MOUTH” a warm, mulled-wine lip makes a bold, elegant statement.
“It’s a confidence thing: lipstick is the one thing that quickly gives you that incredible feeling of looking fab and gets you noticed.” Charlotte Tilbury, make-up artist
No 1 trick? “Keep it simple” ” says Terry de Gunzburg. “Over the age of 40, you want to redefine your features with make up but not overuse it. If people are used to seeing you with no lipstick or a daytime nude, switch to a bold mouth; match with really heavy volume lashes and redraw your brows; go light on your skin but apply a hint of a glow with a peach blush. Make everything less, yet more defined!”
MAKE LIPS LAST! There’s a return to the classic application of a deep dark plum red lip, so get your tissues out!
1 Balm your lips to ensure they aren’t dry and flaky which gets highlighted under any bold colour. Walk away and do your hair, otherwise they’ll be too greasy for a lasting lip.
2 Prime lips with bit of your foundation or concealer to help create a more uniform base.
3 Apply lipstick with a brush as it works the colour into your lips more, then blot with a tissue. This takes any shine off and gives a slightly worn velvety look to your lips that makes them look like yours only way more powerful.
4 Apply a second coat with the lip brush for a more intense lip, and blot once more.
5 If you need to define your lip line, do it as the last step for a softer outline that will wear off with ease. Alternatively use a lip liner all over your mouth as your colour, but it’s drying, so do balm well first.